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A Closer Look at South Asian New York Fashion Week 2023
Time to explore the breathtaking designs on display at SANYFW 2023.
Simran Handa
October 22, 2023
Welcome to the first edition of Cross Couture, the newsletter that’s all about the beauty that arises as couture collides across cultures.
The clothes we wear have always been an ever-shifting portrait of society and with this newsletter, we’re sitting down to explore how the clothing we wear changes as we come into contact with new societies, technologies, and stories.
South Asian New York Fashion Week Season 2 just took place and as with last year, it was stunning to see the variety of looks displayed on the runway: from utterly nostalgic and traditional to modern office wear, all tied together with patterns, structures, and embroidery based in desi culture.
I’ll be honest: I have a particular bias towards covering this show as my first newsletter edition. As a desi woman, my mom insisted on wearing a saree or salwar to work every Friday, in an office filled with old, white, men. “I want”, she said, “them to know that I am South Asian. And that background has propelled me to where I am.”
As I type this, I’m wearing my usual all-black uniform of chinos and a blouse. But since I hit my twenties, I’ve begun to appreciate the intricacies of South Asian clothing more. The pleats of a saree, the swish of a dupatta, and the swirls of phulkari are fascinating, rather than an obstacle to be overcome as I trip down subway steps.
The Designers
This year’s designs were both familiar and utterly new. In each piece, I recognize bits from my mom’s/grandfather’s/cousin’s wardrobes, all expertly threaded through with styles I wear in my minimalist day-to-day.
This is part one of a SANYFW ‘23 rundown - hopefully, you love the designs as much as I do.
Note: the categories are pretty rough. Most designers have clothing in two to three categories and I’ve chosen their most prevalent designs when placing them in categories.
Bridal: Two designers here, both utterly different in their takes on bridal wear!
Akriti by Shakun: Shakun’s designs bring a whiff of nostalgia to the viewer. Opulent, with unsullied rich colors that are allowed to shine without any muting, his work calls bygone eras to mind.
Through careful styling and detailed embellishment, Shakun takes care that we can’t distance the style from the geography.
Each design is woven through with elaborate floral embroidery and geometrical, almost architectural patterns.
Across outfits, one sees glimmers of the Delhi Red Fort, the legendary Sheesh Mahal, as well as other pieces of architecture across South Asia.
Some of my favorite Akriti by Shakun pieces!
Raas: The Global Naari: Unlike Akriti, Raas emphasizes a lighter side to their brides, injecting play into each design.
Raas is one of the few brands that make the distinctions between lehengas, ghagras, and chaniya cholis clear.
A brand of exuberance, Raas is all about colors, swirls, ruffles, and flourishes.
Some of my favorite Raas pieces!
Cocktail/Party: Three designers here, all playing with ideas of formal wear in their own unique ways.
Jamil by Madiha J. Dhanani: Jamil’s work reminds me of a flower’s petals unfolding.
The work is delicate, with organza, satin, and soft silk fabrics, and rosette or vine-like attachments.
Each piece adds a soft glamor to anything you wear, without looking out of place - doesn’t matter if it’s a t-shirt or your ratty jeans.
Some of my favorite Jamil by MD pieces!
Sithara by Sriya x ShreeDraws: This was one of my personal favorite lines. Sithara is what I can only describe as desi cottagecore, with its earthy tones and simple A-line cuts.
Combined with some Renaissance-esque belts and sleeves and a slightly homey look, Sithara seems perfect for heading out to a picnic or a cocktail party - dealer’s choice.
Some of my favorite Sithara pieces!
Top left, mid left, bottom left, top right, mid right, bottom right
Work: Professional workplace attire doesn’t need to be neutral, basic, and well, kind of dull.
Chaa Latte: This was another favorite brand. With simple silhouettes and neutral colors, Chaa Latte shines with its embellishments.
This includes mirror work, geometrical appliqué work on cuffs and the bottom of pants, as well as their amazing payal collection, where they’ve added anklet or anklet pieces to emphasize blazer lapels, the bottoms of dresses, or straps.
Some of my favorite Chaa Latte pieces!
Top left, mid left, bottom left, top right, bottom right
Sandeep Tupili and Maison Tai: Sandeep and Maison Tai play around with color and silhouette in their work wear - unusual for a genre of clothing that is commonly known for sleekness. Honestly? I’m all for it - it’s time to remake work wear.
There are pleats within pencil skirts, color blocking within blazers, and some lovely hidden details, like trousers with fold-up contrast hems in kanjeevaram silk.
Some of my favorite Maison Tai pieces!
Top left, bottom left (I recognize this is nowhere close to workwear, but HOW PRETTY), middle center, bottom middle, top right, bottom right
This wraps up Part 1 of the SANYFW 2023 rundown! Stay tuned for next week’s issue when we discuss more SANYFW designers in the casual wear and accessories realm.
Do you have any designers you love? I’d love for you to share them below or as a reply to this email! Or if you have any Qs, email me - I’m always ready to answer!
Want to chat about fashion/history/literally anything else? Here’s my Calendly!